Oval and brilliant step-cut rubies, old-cut diamonds, silver and 18k yellow gold (French marks), Maison Rouvenat Després et Cie fitted case, circa 1880

SSEF, 2023: approximately 9.00 x 7.00 x 4.00 mm, approximately 11.00 x 9.50 x 3.75 mm and approximately 9.00 x 7.25 x 4.65 mm, Burma (Myanmar), no indications of heating, none to minor amount of oil in fissures at the time of testing

Centro gemologico S.A, 1981: details of the weights of the gemstones set, including a drawing of the tiara

Rubies: for a total weight of 6.60 carats
Diamonds: for a total weight of 33.13 carats

Size/Dimensions: length 30.5 cm, height 0.9 to 3.8 cm
Gross weight: 77.3 grams

Marquise de Retes,
Marquis de San Roman de Ayala,
His descendants

This delicate tiara set with Burmese rubies and diamonds was commissioned by the Marquise de Retes around 1919 to commemorate her knighthood by King Alfonso XIII of Spain.
On the photography here : his brother, the Marquis de San Roman de Ayala, dressed in the gala uniform of His Majesty King Alfonso XIII's butler.


In 1862, Félix Desprès embarked on his journey in the world of jewelry as an apprentice, and he soon found his way to the Rouvenat house. This establishment, under the leadership of Léon Rouvenat, had gained recognition for earning a prestigious medal of honor at the Universal Exhibition in London. Léon Rouvenat, in collaboration with his son-in-law Charles Lourdel, joined forces to expand their venture. In this endeavor, Félix Desprès played a pivotal role as the representative of the Rouvenat house, which subsequently evolved into Rouvenat-Lourdel. This transformation was evident as they participated in major events, such as the London International Exhibition of 1871 and the Universal Exhibition in Vienna in 1873.

However, with the unfortunate passings of both Léon Rouvenat and Charles Lourdel, Félix Desprès assumed full control of the house, leading to a name change in 1883 to Rouvenat-Desprès. Félix Desprès continued to propel the legacy of the company to new heights, particularly due to his remarkable achievements at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1889, where he was awarded the gold medal for his exceptional work. Despite the acclaim and success of the jewelry creations, the Rouvenat-Desprès house regrettably met its end on the eve of the First World War.