18k yellow gold (customs mark), dial signed Rolex, mechanical movement, circa 1945

Size/Dimensions: bracelet 22.5 cm, dial diameter 35.0 mm
Gross weight: 48.2 grams

The Rolex Reference 3525: A Witness to Horological and Military History

The watch reference 3525, associated with serial number 380242, dates back to approximately 1946. This iconic model is one of the first chronographs to feature the renowned Oyster case, a major innovation by Rolex. Although the sharp edges of this case, particularly its angular lugs, have been softened by years of polishing, the reference 3525 remains a striking example of the brand's technical and aesthetic evolution. Produced from the late 1930s to the mid-1940s, this watch represents a pivotal era in watchmaking.
Inside the case, one can observe the Swiss hammerhead hallmark numbered 136, identifying the manufacturer C. R. Spillmann & Co, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds. This company specialized in producing solid gold cases for Rolex before being acquired by the brand in the late 1980s.

A particularly notable anecdote gives the reference 3525 an evocative nickname: the "Prisoner’s Watch" or POW (Prisoner of War). During World War II, Rolex offered this steel model to British prisoners of war held by the Germans. Under the leadership of Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex’s co-founder, these watches were sold with a deferred payment option, allowing prisoners to pay for them once the war was over. This practice reflected Wilsdorf's strong ties with British military personnel, having founded the brand in London in 1905. The offer was not limited to prisoners but extended to all soldiers engaged in the conflict.

In sum, the reference 3525 not only embodies a horological milestone with the adoption of the Oyster case but also tells a deeply human and symbolic story, intricately connected to the major events of the 20th century.