CIRCA: 1945
CASE MATERIAL: 18K gold and sapphire-set
CASE SIZE: 50 mm. diam.
DIAL: Engine-turned silvered
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: Time only

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Lot Essay

The present is a rare example of a “Gouvernail” or “Helm” dress watch as opposed to the more common wristwatch versions.

The revival of gold watches in round cases in the mid-1940s inspired Cartier to design models completely different from the classical "Cartier" style. Amongst these post war creations figured the famous "Helm" watch, the name derived from its design resembling a ship's wheel.

The Helm model was made in various versions, comprising dress watches and wristwatches, varying in layout and sizes, the majority cased in yellow gold. Celebrities such as Barbara Hutton and the Maharajah of Kapurthala owned examples of this very popular model.

Different examples of the "Helm" model are described and illustrated in The Cartier Collection - Timepieces, Editions Flammarion, pp. 395 - 397, and Le Temps de Cartier by J. Barracca, G. Negretti, F. Nencini, p. 87.