Details
CIRCA: 1610
CASE MATERIAL: 22k gold
CASE DIAMETER: 37.2 mm.
DIAL: White enamel
MOVEMENT: Manual, keyless
FUNCTIONS: Time only

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Lot Essay

This exceptional and extremely beautiful watch is one of a very small group of similar enamel watches that can be attributed to the great Geneva enamellist Pierre Huaud I. These watches, of which the present watch is one of the smallest, are closely associated with Louis XIV and the French royal court, and are regarded as some of the finest horological masterpieces to survive from the 17th century.

The distinctive turquoise enamel used as the dominant colour has its origins in the French city of Blois in the first half of the 17th century. However, the design and techniques employed in the making of this watch would indicate that it is probably the work of the Geneva enamellist Pierre Huaud I (1612-1680), son of a French goldsmith who emigrated to Geneva in 1630 and who had in fact been apprenticed in Blois.

Of further note is the very finely constructed movement with silver balance cock which underlines the elevated status of this watch.

Pierre (I) Huaud (1612 - around 1680)
The enamel of the present watch can be attributed to Pierre Huaud the first, founder of the Huaud dynasty of renowned enamellers. His father Jean Huaud, a French goldsmith, had immigrated to Geneva in 1630.

Three of Pierre's children became also renowned enamellers: Pierre II (1647-1698), Jean-Pierre (1655-1723) and Ami (1657-1724). The three brothers trained in the workshop of their father and apparently did not sign their work until his death around 1680.

Pierre Huaud the father seldom signed his works but certain aspects and colors differ from those of his sons: he was apparently the only one who used translucent enamel as well as turquoise as a ground color.

The Huauds are renowned for their distinctive and beautiful style of enamel paintings. The outstanding work is characterized by their miniaturist style and use of rich and varied colors in contrast to the pastel shades of the French enamellers of Blois. The enamel cases decorated by the Huaud family are highly regarded works of art in their own right.

Paul Vallette
A Paul Vallette was residing in Geneva in the first half of the 17th century and there is record of a ‘Valette’ living in Nimes, about 60 kilometers away, in 1666. It is quite probable that they were members of the same family, if not one and the same person. Watchmakers with the surname Vallette were working in Geneva until at least the late 18th century.

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