Round emeralds, sapphires and diamonds, square-shaped diamond, 18k yellow gold (Italian mark) and platinum, central part detachable for wear as a brooch, circa 1960, signed Bvlgari

Emeralds: for an approximate total weight of 9.00 - 10.00 carats
Sapphires: for an approximate total weight of 13.00 - 15.00 carats
Diamonds: for an approximate total weight of 5.00 - 5.50 carats

Size/Dimensions: bangle inner circumference 17.0 cm; brooch 5.2 cm high
Gross weight: 130.4 grams

Christie's, Geneva, May 2017, sale number 14673, lot 140

Cf. Triossi A., Between Eternity and History, BVLGARI, from 1884 to 2009, 125 Years of Italian Jewels, Milan, Skira, 2009, p. 127 for illustration of a similar model

Until the mid-20th century, fashion and design were primarily dictated by Paris. However, the 1950s marked a period of remarkable economic growth for Italy, shifting Europe’s attention towards the country. Europeans began purchasing Italian cars, furniture, clothing, shoes, and jewellery. The asymmetrical floral motifs typical of French jewellery in the 1940s were replaced by more structured, compact designs. Bulgari, in particular, embraced bold colour combinations, blending not only hues but also different gemstones together. Pieces would combine reds with greens or blues with reds and turquoises would get mixed with the violet of amethysts. This shield brooch, with its round, compact form mounted on a bangle and adorned with emeralds, sapphires and diamonds, exemplifies Bulgari's distinctive style of the 1950s.

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