CIRCA: 1962
CASE MATERIAL: Stainless steel
CASE DIAMETER: 37 mm.
BRACELET MATERIAL: Stainless steel
BRACELET SIZE: Approx. 180 mm. overall length
DIAL: Black glossy 'Exclamation'
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Time only
BOX: No
PAPERS: No

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Lot Essay

Introduced in 1953, the Submariner has become one of Rolex’s most iconic and enduring creations. The earliest generations are particularly distinctive for their cases without crown guards, a feature Rolex would later introduce to provide greater protection to the winding crown and enhance the robustness of the watch.

The first serially produced Submariner, reference 6204, featured pencil hands, luminous hour markers and a relatively small winding crown. It was followed by a succession of early ‘small crown’ references, while references 6538 and 5510 adopted the celebrated oversized ‘big crown’. Reference 5508 represented the final evolution of the early no-crown-guard Submariner with a depth rating of ‘100m = 330ft’, before the design evolved towards the crown-guard cases that would define subsequent generations.

Production of reference 5508 continued until 1962, with several dial variations produced during its final years, including examples featuring tritium luminous material. The present timepiece is distinguished by its ‘Exclamation’ dial, so named for the small additional luminous dot positioned directly beneath the 6 o’clock hour marker, creating the appearance of an exclamation mark. This distinctive feature is understood to have signified the use of luminous material with reduced radioactive emissions, reflecting Rolex’s transition towards the use of tritium. Approximately a year later, Rolex adopted the industry-standard ‘SWISS – T<25’ designation, indicating the use of tritium with a radioactive content below the prescribed threshold.

The early Submariner also became inseparable from popular culture through its association with James Bond. Rolex Submariners famously appeared on screen in Dr. No, From Russia with Love, Goldfinger and Thunderball, further establishing the model as one of the most recognisable sports watches of the 20th century.

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Condition report

A Christie's specialist may contact you to discuss this lot or to notify you if the condition changes prior to the sale.

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The condition of lots can vary widely and the nature of the lots sold means that they are unlikely to be in a perfect condition. Lots are sold in the condition they are in at the time of sale.

Movement: The movement is ticking at the time of cataloguing; however, a service is recommended. Christie’s does not guarantee the future working of the movement.
Dial: Some scratches and signs of ageing on the dial. Some lumes are damaged. Reacts to UV light. Some luminous material missing on minute and seconds hand.
Case: Scratches and dents throughout. Case back with scratches and dents. Signs of previous polishing. Bezel has scratches and would require fixing by Rolex. Glass has scratches. Engravings between lugs are legible. Inside case back stamped II.62. Multiple service marks inscribed.
Bracelet: Scratches and dents throughout. Some stretch. Endlinks 64, clasp 4.60. Clasp has been retightened.

Should you require additional details or pictures, please contact a specialist.
The condition of lots sold in our auctions can vary widely due to factors such as age, previous damage, restoration, repair and wear and tear. Their nature means that they will rarely be in perfect condition. Lots are sold "as is," in the condition they are in at the time of the sale, without any representation or warranty or assumption of liability of any kind as to condition by Christie's or by the seller.
Any reference to condition in a catalogue entry or in a condition report will not amount to a full description of condition, and images may not show a lot clearly. Colours and shades may look different in print or on screen to how they look on physical inspection. Condition reports may be available to help you evaluate the condition of a lot. Condition reports are provided free of charge as a convenience to our buyers and are for guidance only. They offer our opinion but they may not refer to all faults, inherent defects, restoration, alteration or adaptation because our staff are not professional restorers or conservators. For that reason they are not an alternative to examining a lot in person or taking your own professional advice. It is your responsibility to ensure that you have requested, received and considered any condition report.

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